There is another paper model version here: Life Size Iron Man 2 War Machine Helmet Free Paper Model. You can download this papercraft template here: Life Size Iron Man Helmet Papercraft Free Download. Captain America: Civil War - Mark III War Machine Armor Free Papercraft Download. Iron Man Mark 42 Costume Helmet DIY - Cardboard build with template PDF: chartrolywfunccard.ml Iron Man Mk V helmet pattern pdf Download - 4shared Iron Man Helmet, Diy Projects . This papercraft is a Mark 42 (Mark XLII) Helmet, one part of the Iron Man.
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Iron Man Helmet Papercraft Template PDF - Download as PDF File .pdf), Text File .txt) or read online. Iron man. My favourite movie is the Iron Man and I wanted to get an Iron Man helmet, but I'm a Fortunately, you don't have to design the model, here is chartrolywfunccard.ml file. For this project, I chose to replicate the MK3 Iron Man from. Post Note: I have decided to upload a chopped up PDF of both A4 and Letter templates so you can .
For these templates, simply trace the left side and flip the template for the right side! Make sure to transfer the cut notes to the foam so you know what cuts are needed. Post Note: I have decided to upload a chopped up PDF of both A4 and Letter templates so you can directly print the templates in segments with no hassle. Once you've acquired the templates, they'll need to printed, cut out and transferred to your choice of foam. To transfer the templates to your foam, cut out the template, trace the outline onto the foam and jot down the notes on each line of the template.
For the construction of the helmet, I'm using camping mat foam. This has a few benefits over the favorable EVA foam as camping mat foam is flat on both sides and good quality mats are made of two pieces which shows a dividing line so for some areas, the thickness can be trimmed off easily. Lastly, camping mats can be cut a lot cleaner than EVA foam and don't leave ugly edges when your blades get dull.
These are how each line need to be cut. A "flat" cut means you cut perpendicular and straight down the foam for a flat cut, an "in" cut is to run the blade along the line but to cut at an inside angle towards the foam piece and lastly, an "out" cut is to run the blade along the line but to cut at an outwards angle away from the foam piece.
Every in, out or flat cut has a corresponding face that it glues to, so two pieces that are "in" will have a sharp defining corner when glued together and flat cut will join flat to make one piece. You'll also notice some lines are colour coded and each colour has a different purpose.
Red lines are "fold in" lines where the foam needs to be bent in or cut inwards just like an "IN" cut; this depends on the thickness of the foam.
Blue lines are "fold out" lines where the foam piece needs to bend out. Green lines are score lines where you don't cut all the way through, yellow lines are overlap lines where the foam pieces are glued directly on top and lastly, cyan lines are areas that need to be trimmed to 4mm thickness as the pieces overlap and utilizes the thickness of the foam itself.
When all of your pieces are cut out, it's time to put it all together! It may seem a little daunting at first as it might not be initially clear what pieces go where but hopefully, the images will guide you in the right direction and each piece is labeled to help show what piece goes where.
To join your pieces, you've gotta stick 'em together of course! Your choice of adhesive is critical here as the quality of the joins depends on your adhesive and your skill level.
I'm using contact cement to apply my pieces together. It's extremely strong, it's a flexible adhesive, it relatively easy to work with and the joining is near seamless if lined up properly. You can use hot glue if you wish as many people are familiar with hot glue, I just personally prefer the results of contact cement.
To use contact cement, both contact points of foam needs a small amount of contact cement applied. Both sides are left to dry for 5 minutes and when both sides are tacky, join the pieces and the glue will bond instantly.
Read the label as different contact cements may behave differently. I like to start with the faceplate of the helmet as it's easy to make out. Simply line up your pieces and glue together; a good idea is to test your adhesives and your skill on gluing, using scrap pieces and seeing what results you get, plus you can get some practice out of it too! To shape the foam pieces, a heat source is needed to shape the foam; that's where the heat gun comes in.
The foam becomes pliable when heat is applied and can be formed into shape with your hands; just heat the piece, form it and let it cool down.
If you didn't get the shape you want, just reheat and try again. From the faceplate, I glued the top piece of the helmet together, then the sides and then the mouth area.
I left the back pieces last as they required more attention in my case. The foam was too thick for some areas so I had to trim off half of the foam on the edges with enough space for the extra amount to glue onto. Using the templates I provide shows what areas need to be trimmed to the correct thickness. With the majority of the helmet constructed, next is to focus on the small details, all of which is made of white craft foam. If you noticed in the last step, there's a gap between the chin and the ridge of the faceplate that needs to be covered up.
I don't have templates for this as the top mouth piece needed to be glued on first and it's just a case of cutting pieces of craft foam to fit and trim until it fits perfectly. Using superglue to join craft foam is easier than contact cement as there is more control.
For the mouth piece, I actually cut the mouth piece out twice and glued them together to thicken the mouth piece, as I preferred the look more. During the assembly process, I actually screwed up a little on the piece that overlaps on the top of the helmet, resulting in an ugly dent.
To fix this as cleanly and simply as possible, I applied some contact cement to both the affected area and a cut out piece of craft foam, waited for both sides to dry and placed the craft foam on top, applying pressure until the glue set. With the fix done, next was the ears. To accommodate for the thickness of the ears, I decided to use some thick 10mm EVA foam for this.
To shape these ears, I actually used a couple power tools to do this; this is the only time I used power tools and can be worked around easily by just using the same camping foam which is softer. I used a portable belt sander to sand the texture off the foam pucks and I used a Dremel rotary tool with a sanding bit it bevel the edges.
I scored the round detail on the surface of the foam and by using a heat gun on the score line, the score line separates, making the score visible and more defining. Attaching the ears to the helmet is the same procedure; contact cement on both surfaces, wait until tacky, bond together. With the foam helmet complete, we're almost ready for paint, however, we need to do some prep work first.
Because I'm painting with Plasti-dip Latex based spray paint I wanted to see how it behaves such as how it grabs to the foam, how it takes masking tape, if it reacts with top coats and so on so I made some test samples. What I found was a coat of PVA on the foam provides a much nicer and slicker surface quality look and feel compared to raw foam. I also found that the gold top coat bonds nicely and masking tape sticks properly and removes cleanly.
During these tests, one of the pieces the only one without a PVA base coat corners lifted up and the layer just ripped off so based on these results, coating the helmet in PVA glue is vital. One last thing I tested was spraying regular acrylic gold spray paint on 2 test pieces: I applied 3 coats of PVA, spreading it as thin as I can and letting each coat thoroughly dry before the next coat; you can thin it down if you want thinner coats but I felt the thickness of my PVA was just fine as is.
If you happen to have a few areas where the pieces didn't join perfectly, now is the time to use flexible decorators caulk.
The caulk is flexible once dried and can be painted as well, making it ideal for filling small areas on foam. I applied a small amount on affected areas with a small spatula an used water to smooth and blend the area. Simply leave to dry and you're set. When all of your PVA is dry, leave for at least 24 hours before moving onto the next step to ensure the PVA has cured and won't affect the paint.
It's time to paint!
Add a Comment: Load All Images. I've been looking everywhere for this. Thanks so much. The template should be able to print straight onto A4 without resizing thanks to there being little difference between Letter and A4, right?
I know there's probably zero chance of a response, but I'm gonna try make this out of gsm metallic gold and red card. Wanna see the results when I'm done?
Do we just print them out and cut them out or are these the instructions to make your own? This is the PDF version of the papercraft model, there's no instruction manual available. Ya lo hice y quedo buenisimo,,, ahora la pregunta del millon.. Question 5 weeks ago.
Question 1 year ago. Dude I have to say this is an epic result.
Ive made about 5 in total now and they arnt easy. There are various examples out there and triple the amount of files but a real credit to you this is fantastic.
Brilliant work from one builder to another. Hey man i printed the pages from your pdf you provided.. As regards to the dotted fold lines, are they all folded the same way and how do i distinguish between which bits fold which way. Reply 3 years ago. This is amazing. Well beyond my grasp unfortunately, because I definitely do not have the right materials.
Well done. I'm seriously blown away by your handy work on this.
I have a simple question I just can't find it in any store. What would happen if I go with normal paper? Reply 3 years ago on Introduction.
I researched the exact same thing you are having trouble on and found that cardstock paper works well based off other models I've seen. Thanks for posting this!
Just one Little question, can I use instead of the Trinat Filler, a By geq1 Follow. More by the author: Did you make this project? Share it with us! I Made It! How to Create a Batman: Horizontal Bandsaw Class. Tyler Question 5 weeks ago. Answer Upvote. Hey can anyone please explain just how to put this together? A video maybe? Reply Upvote.